On Sunday morning it’s off to Berlin. In 2 hours we’re at the Berlin Hauptbahnhof and find a taxi to Heerstrasse 17. Frau Rolle, mother of the owner is waiting for us at the curb and shows us around the flat, basically one room plus kitchen and bath! We spend the rest of the day exploring the neighborhood, most of the shops are closed and have dinner at a lovely little restaurant run by two women, where Eliane has Spargel Kalbschnitzel (white asparagus with a veal schnitzel) and I eat Konigsberger Klopse (meatballs in a caper cream sauce) which is delicious and reminds me of my Mother. We also buy two 7-day tickets for the Underground and buses. The buses are on strike and we manage only one ride; however the U-Bahn (underground) works very well and we use it daily. After the opera the trains still run at about 10 or 12-minute intervals. (BART are you listening?)
Monday morning we start with breakfast in our new home then figure out the U- Bahn and take the U2 line from Theodor-Heuss-Platz, about two blocks from the apartment to Potsdamer-Platz to see the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. This is a very moving memorial of about 2,700 concrete slabs, each 95 centimeters wide and 238 centimeters long (about 3 feet by 8 feet) in tight rows; their heights range from ground level to 4.5 meters (about 15 feet) high. Each slab sits on its own foundation. The memorial was designed by Peter Eisenman of New York and in its own way is just as moving as the Viet Nam war memorial in Washington DC. We spent a long time at the memorial although the Information Center, underground and beneath the memorial is closed (it being Monday) From the memorial we take the U-Bahn to Halesches Tor to see the Daniel Libeskind designed Jewish Museum. We spent several hours in the museum; the exterior is quite amazing and thought provoking; however the inside is very confusing and the gallery tour very difficult to follow. On the way home we buy sausages, potato salad and fresh rolls for dinner and visit the supermarket downstairs for supplies for breakfast.
On Tuesday morning we decide to check out Schloss Charlottenburg (Charlottenburg castle) which we find by U-Bahn and bus and are delighted to see young people in costume selling tickets for the dinner/concert in the castle’s Orangery; we buy tickets for Thursday evening. After looking at the outside of the castle we do the Bergruen Museum directly across the street. This is a delight; it is one of Berlin’s newest, a collection of works by Picasso, Matisse and Paul Klee formerly owned by Heinze Bergruen, the Paris and Berlin art dealer. The audio guide, in English, has many explanations of the pictures by Bergruen and details of his acquisition. Outside the museum we pick up the Severin & Kuhn double deck bus tour and start our Berlin city tour. We decide to hop off outside the KaDeWe (Kafhaus des Westens – Department Store of the West) the largest store in Europe. We have a lot of fun starting out on the 6th floor, the food hall! We look around and find a Paul Bocuse café and La Notre patisserie from Paris; however we have Wurst und Sauerkraut (sausages) for lunch. Then continue the city tour back to our starting point and bus and U-Bahn back home.
Today (Wednesday) we take a look at the Gemalde Gallerie, the national gallery of old masters, which is huge and full of paintings by all the old masters. We look at beautiful Durers, Rembrands, and Rubens then take a break. In the evening we have opera tickets, bought on-line months ago. We take the U-Bahn to Under-den-Linden (Under the Lime Trees) and pick up our tickets. The Don Giovanni at the Staatsoper under den Linden is totally amazing; in modern dress with absolutely minimal scenery and costumes; the entire emphasis is on the singing and the music!
On Thursday morning Eliane goes to the Gemaldegallerie (Gallery of New Masters) while I stay home and take it easy. In the evening we go to the dinner and
concert (Berliner Residenz Schloss & Konzerte) at the Schloss Charlottenburg
It’s very grand and we get all dressed up! First there is a sit-down dinner by
candlelight served in a very grand room. Then we move into another part of the
Palace for a concert of Baroque music including Mozart, Bach and Handel played
by candlelight with the orchestra in costume. It is totally delightful and a lot of fun.
On Friday morning we visit the Neue Synagoge – Centrum Judaicum, museum and community center on Oranienburger Strasse, which we have no trouble finding. Jews have lived in Berlin since 1295 and when the Nazis came to power in 1933 about 172,000 Jews lived there, about one-third of all German Jews. In 1939 there were more than 100 synagogues. It is estimated that 55,000 Berlin Jews suffered deportation and death at the hands of the Nazis. About 6,000 survived in Berlin, most of them because of their marriage to Gentile partners and some in hiding. Today Berlin has the largest Jewish community in Germany. The huge Rykestrasse synagogue in the former East Berlin was recently completely restored however is rarely open to the public. The very grand Neue Synagoge, which we visited was built in 1866 and was heavily damaged by the “Reichskristallnacht Progrom” (Night of Broken Glass) in 1938. The security at the synagogue is a bit crazy-making; there are 3 policemen outside and metal detectors inside. However the people are very pleasant and helpful. The building has been only partially restored including the magnificent dome, which we reach by way of elevator and very steep circular staircase. There is also a very interesting exhibition of Jewish life in Berlin before the war.
Then we take a look at Checkpoint Charley, the most visited spot in Berlin. It’s wall-to-wall people and in one of the many souvenir shops I found the kaki bag that I saw on many people and buy one for Lysa. In the evening we go to the dinner and show at the Winter Garten Cabaret at the suggestion of my teacher, Manuela. Dinner is served in an upstairs dining room, all red plush and then we go downstairs to the theater, where we have a tiny table for two to watch the show; of course we order a glass of champagne, actually German sparkling wine! The theater is full, all tourists I think, and the show consists of song and dance numbers plus a high-wire act, amazing jugglers and a guy who jumps and does multiple somersaults from a narrow board held on the shoulders of two other guys.
On Saturday we decide to do some major shopping. We start out at Wilmersdorfer Strasse, a pedestrian zone with several big department stores, small shops, cafés and restaurants. At the Karstadt department store I buy a bright red knit shirt for €20. In the middle of the pedestrian area there’s a Biergarten with live music, which is doing a land-office business. I sit and enjoy the music while Eliane shops. I love this street; it feels genuine with very few tourists. After lunch we take the U-Bahn to Ka de We and continue shopping. Next door at Peek & Cloppenburg I buy a beautiful blue tie to go with the new blue shirt. The tie is only twice the price of the shirt!
Later we take the U-Bahn to Deutche-Oper station, about 3 stops; have dinner at a small Italian restaurant across the street, and see Marriage of Figaro at Berlin Opera. This is done in traditional style with traditional scenery and costumes. Susanna is a bit weak, however all of the other singers are top class!
Sunday is our last day, we order a taxi for 8AM by phone and of course he’s already there when we come downstairs. The train trip to Frankfurt is a bit of a disaster. First of all the elevator and escalator up to the platform are both out of order (very un-German!) I speak to a railway guy and he says “don’t worry, have patience and come back in 20 minutes” Twenty minutes later two women guards push our heavily laden luggage cart to another elevator take us up to another platform and across to our train for Frankfurt. Did I tell you that there are no direct trains from Berlin to Frankfurt Airport? We have to change trains either at Frankfurt Main or Hannover and decide on Hannover. So we get off the train in Hannover and I cannot find a luggage cart; we drag our many suitcases to the elevator and go down to the main level where I find a luggage cart and we take the elevator up to the correct platform to see our train to Frankfurt Airport leave. The next direct train is in two hours (we do not want to deal with another change) so we got downstairs find a café and have a second breakfast; a Deutsches Fruhstuck fur zwei (German breakfast for two), which consists of, are you ready: two glasses of Prosecco (Italian sparkling wine) two boiled eggs, a plate of sliced meats and cheeses plus fresh rolls with butter and jam and coffee. It almost makes it worthwhile to miss the train! We catch the next train to Frankfurt Airport, pick up our rental car and drive to Heidelberg with only one minor getting-lost.
Photos:
Our Berlin Apartment 2#100
Theodor-Heuss-Platz 2#34
Memorial to the Murdered Jews 2#037
Memorial to the Murdered Jews 2#042
Monday morning we start with breakfast in our new home then figure out the U- Bahn and take the U2 line from Theodor-Heuss-Platz, about two blocks from the apartment to Potsdamer-Platz to see the Memorial to the Murdered Jews of Europe. This is a very moving memorial of about 2,700 concrete slabs, each 95 centimeters wide and 238 centimeters long (about 3 feet by 8 feet) in tight rows; their heights range from ground level to 4.5 meters (about 15 feet) high. Each slab sits on its own foundation. The memorial was designed by Peter Eisenman of New York and in its own way is just as moving as the Viet Nam war memorial in Washington DC. We spent a long time at the memorial although the Information Center, underground and beneath the memorial is closed (it being Monday) From the memorial we take the U-Bahn to Halesches Tor to see the Daniel Libeskind designed Jewish Museum. We spent several hours in the museum; the exterior is quite amazing and thought provoking; however the inside is very confusing and the gallery tour very difficult to follow. On the way home we buy sausages, potato salad and fresh rolls for dinner and visit the supermarket downstairs for supplies for breakfast.
On Tuesday morning we decide to check out Schloss Charlottenburg (Charlottenburg castle) which we find by U-Bahn and bus and are delighted to see young people in costume selling tickets for the dinner/concert in the castle’s Orangery; we buy tickets for Thursday evening. After looking at the outside of the castle we do the Bergruen Museum directly across the street. This is a delight; it is one of Berlin’s newest, a collection of works by Picasso, Matisse and Paul Klee formerly owned by Heinze Bergruen, the Paris and Berlin art dealer. The audio guide, in English, has many explanations of the pictures by Bergruen and details of his acquisition. Outside the museum we pick up the Severin & Kuhn double deck bus tour and start our Berlin city tour. We decide to hop off outside the KaDeWe (Kafhaus des Westens – Department Store of the West) the largest store in Europe. We have a lot of fun starting out on the 6th floor, the food hall! We look around and find a Paul Bocuse café and La Notre patisserie from Paris; however we have Wurst und Sauerkraut (sausages) for lunch. Then continue the city tour back to our starting point and bus and U-Bahn back home.
Today (Wednesday) we take a look at the Gemalde Gallerie, the national gallery of old masters, which is huge and full of paintings by all the old masters. We look at beautiful Durers, Rembrands, and Rubens then take a break. In the evening we have opera tickets, bought on-line months ago. We take the U-Bahn to Under-den-Linden (Under the Lime Trees) and pick up our tickets. The Don Giovanni at the Staatsoper under den Linden is totally amazing; in modern dress with absolutely minimal scenery and costumes; the entire emphasis is on the singing and the music!
On Thursday morning Eliane goes to the Gemaldegallerie (Gallery of New Masters) while I stay home and take it easy. In the evening we go to the dinner and
concert (Berliner Residenz Schloss & Konzerte) at the Schloss Charlottenburg
It’s very grand and we get all dressed up! First there is a sit-down dinner by
candlelight served in a very grand room. Then we move into another part of the
Palace for a concert of Baroque music including Mozart, Bach and Handel played
by candlelight with the orchestra in costume. It is totally delightful and a lot of fun.
On Friday morning we visit the Neue Synagoge – Centrum Judaicum, museum and community center on Oranienburger Strasse, which we have no trouble finding. Jews have lived in Berlin since 1295 and when the Nazis came to power in 1933 about 172,000 Jews lived there, about one-third of all German Jews. In 1939 there were more than 100 synagogues. It is estimated that 55,000 Berlin Jews suffered deportation and death at the hands of the Nazis. About 6,000 survived in Berlin, most of them because of their marriage to Gentile partners and some in hiding. Today Berlin has the largest Jewish community in Germany. The huge Rykestrasse synagogue in the former East Berlin was recently completely restored however is rarely open to the public. The very grand Neue Synagoge, which we visited was built in 1866 and was heavily damaged by the “Reichskristallnacht Progrom” (Night of Broken Glass) in 1938. The security at the synagogue is a bit crazy-making; there are 3 policemen outside and metal detectors inside. However the people are very pleasant and helpful. The building has been only partially restored including the magnificent dome, which we reach by way of elevator and very steep circular staircase. There is also a very interesting exhibition of Jewish life in Berlin before the war.
Then we take a look at Checkpoint Charley, the most visited spot in Berlin. It’s wall-to-wall people and in one of the many souvenir shops I found the kaki bag that I saw on many people and buy one for Lysa. In the evening we go to the dinner and show at the Winter Garten Cabaret at the suggestion of my teacher, Manuela. Dinner is served in an upstairs dining room, all red plush and then we go downstairs to the theater, where we have a tiny table for two to watch the show; of course we order a glass of champagne, actually German sparkling wine! The theater is full, all tourists I think, and the show consists of song and dance numbers plus a high-wire act, amazing jugglers and a guy who jumps and does multiple somersaults from a narrow board held on the shoulders of two other guys.
On Saturday we decide to do some major shopping. We start out at Wilmersdorfer Strasse, a pedestrian zone with several big department stores, small shops, cafés and restaurants. At the Karstadt department store I buy a bright red knit shirt for €20. In the middle of the pedestrian area there’s a Biergarten with live music, which is doing a land-office business. I sit and enjoy the music while Eliane shops. I love this street; it feels genuine with very few tourists. After lunch we take the U-Bahn to Ka de We and continue shopping. Next door at Peek & Cloppenburg I buy a beautiful blue tie to go with the new blue shirt. The tie is only twice the price of the shirt!
Later we take the U-Bahn to Deutche-Oper station, about 3 stops; have dinner at a small Italian restaurant across the street, and see Marriage of Figaro at Berlin Opera. This is done in traditional style with traditional scenery and costumes. Susanna is a bit weak, however all of the other singers are top class!
Sunday is our last day, we order a taxi for 8AM by phone and of course he’s already there when we come downstairs. The train trip to Frankfurt is a bit of a disaster. First of all the elevator and escalator up to the platform are both out of order (very un-German!) I speak to a railway guy and he says “don’t worry, have patience and come back in 20 minutes” Twenty minutes later two women guards push our heavily laden luggage cart to another elevator take us up to another platform and across to our train for Frankfurt. Did I tell you that there are no direct trains from Berlin to Frankfurt Airport? We have to change trains either at Frankfurt Main or Hannover and decide on Hannover. So we get off the train in Hannover and I cannot find a luggage cart; we drag our many suitcases to the elevator and go down to the main level where I find a luggage cart and we take the elevator up to the correct platform to see our train to Frankfurt Airport leave. The next direct train is in two hours (we do not want to deal with another change) so we got downstairs find a café and have a second breakfast; a Deutsches Fruhstuck fur zwei (German breakfast for two), which consists of, are you ready: two glasses of Prosecco (Italian sparkling wine) two boiled eggs, a plate of sliced meats and cheeses plus fresh rolls with butter and jam and coffee. It almost makes it worthwhile to miss the train! We catch the next train to Frankfurt Airport, pick up our rental car and drive to Heidelberg with only one minor getting-lost.
Photos:
Our Berlin Apartment 2#100
Theodor-Heuss-Platz 2#34
Memorial to the Murdered Jews 2#037
Memorial to the Murdered Jews 2#042
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